Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Add the nori, pumpkin seeds, and chili flakes to a small food processor. Pulse into a coarse powder. Transfer to a small bowl, add the white and black sesame seeds and citrus zest, and mix well. Transfer the spice mixture to the lined baking sheet and spread into a thin, even layer. Turn off the oven and open the door to release the heat. Place the sheet in the oven. Close the door and let sit for an hour or so. Reserve or store in a small resealable container in a cool, dark place for up to 1 month.

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Turn on the convection fan if you have one.

Pile the onions and garlic in the centre of a roasting pan. Cover with the chicken parts. Roast, uncovered, until the chicken is golden brown and caramelized, 30 minutes or so. Carefully pour off accumulated fat, reserving for another use. Transfer the chicken, onions, and garlic to a large saucepan. Pour the apple cider into the roasting pan and stir to dissolve all the browned bits. Pour into the saucepan. Add the soy sauce, brown sugar, cinnamon, bay leaves, peppercorns, allspice, and cloves. Bring to a slow, steady simmer, cover tightly, and cook until thickened and deeply infused with colour and flavour, 45 minutes. Remove the lid, increase the heat, and quickly reduce the sauce, thickening it to 2 cups (500 mL) or so. Remove from the heat and let sit until cool enough to handle. Pour through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof container. Refrigerate until cold and firm. Before using, remove any fat that congeals on the surface. The tare can be made 5 days before you need it.

Thread the meat onto the skewers, alternating chicken pieces with apples. Trim away any dangly chicken bits to prevent charring.

Fill a fire basket with binchotan charcoal and ignite within the roaring flames of an active fire or within a charcoal chimney. Build a tightly packed single- layer charcoal fire in a konro or other charcoal grill. Alternatively, build a lump charcoal fire in a hibachi, kamado, or backyard charcoal grill. Cover carefully with a second layer of coals. Vigorously fan the coals to help fully ignite the charcoal. Tend to a growing bed of fiercely hot glowing white coals. The charcoal will progress through three distinct phases, from cold and black through surface ignition (indicated by an even feathery grey coat), before full ignition eventually penetrates to the centre and it begins glowing cherry red from within. If necessary, position skewer supports over the coals.

Transfer the mulled cider tare sauce to a traditional tare pot or small saucepan and bring to a bare simmer to one side of the fire. Vigorously fan the coals to increase their searing heat. Place the chicken skewers directly on the konro edges or skewer supports. Cook the chicken like a human-powered rotisserie, turning and tending constantly, searing the meat until golden brown, tender, juicy, and nearly fully cooked, 5 minutes or so.

Remove the skewers from the heat, dip into the mulled cider tare sauce, return to the heat, and glaze, turning and tending constantly, a minute or so more. Dip and grill once or twice more, carefully glazing the chicken without scorching or burning. Remove from the heat, dip once more in the tare sauce, sprinkle with seven-spice, and serve immediately.

Briefly return any leftover tare sauce to a simmer, tightly cover, and refrigerate for regular use and replenishment or freeze in an airtight container for up to 6 months to begin your next batch.

NOTE: PERPETUAL TARE: Ancient Cooking Method

A grilling condiment flavoured by constant use and replenishment.

A simmering sugary sauce that tastily glazes the skewers dipped into it while simultaneously being flavoured by the meaty juices left behind. The tare is topped up daily with fresh ingredients, so over time it deepens with signature flavours unique to time and place