From the 2019 Shortlist in the Regional/Cultural Cookbooks Category: Bottom of the Pot by Naz Deravian brings us this perfect summer dessert
~ Roulette cake is very similar to a Swiss roll. It’s light and pretty, and it’s not annoyingly sweet.
Excerpted BOTTOM OF THE POT: Persian Recipes and Stories by Naz Deravian. Copyright © 2018 by Naz Deravian. Reprinted with permission from Flatiron Books. All rights reserved. Photography by Eric Wolfinger.
Roulette Cake
SERVES 8
Once the cake bakes it needs to be rolled in a clean, damp towel, to
help in the rolling process without the cake breaking and crumbling. I’ve added strawberries
to the filling for a fresh pop of color and a bite of early summer. You can mix and match
any berries you like, or simply serve with only the cream filling. This cake can be made one
day in advance and sliced at the table for a beautiful and festive finish to a dinner party.
4 large eggs, at room temperature
½ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract, or ½-inch vanilla bean, seeds scraped
½ cup (60 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted
1½ cups heavy cream
3 tablespoons powdered sugar (plus more for dusting)
2 teaspoons rose water
1 pound sweet, in-season strawberries, hulled, halved or quartered depending on size
Dried rose petals (optional; see below)
Slivered or roughly chopped raw pistachios (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F with the oven rack in the center. Lightly oil a 9 x 13-inch baking sheet and line with parchment paper.
Separate the eggs. Place the egg yolks and the granulated sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Set the egg whites aside in a small bowl (you’ll use them shortly). Using the whisk attachment, beat the yolks and the sugar on medium-high, until pale yellow and creamy, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the vanilla to combine, transfer to a large bowl, and set aside.
Wash out the whisk and the mixer bowl, and whisk the egg whites on medium until soft peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. Fold the egg whites into the egg yolks and then fold in the flour. With a spatula, spread the batter evenly on the lined baking sheet. Make sure it’s spread corner to corner, and bake until lightly golden and baked through, 10 to 12 minutes.
Meanwhile, dampen a kitchen towel large enough to cover the cake. Spread out the towel on a cutting board and invert the cake onto it. Don’t remove the parchment paper. Roll the cake into a log widthwise with the kitchen towel. The damp towel helps with the rolling. Set aside to completely cool to the touch, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the whipped cream. Place the cream, powdered sugar, and rose water in the chilled bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whip on medium until soft peaks form, increase the speed to high, and whip until just set. Don’t overmix, the whipped cream should be soft and spreadable. Store in the fridge until ready to use.
Set the cake roll on a board and unroll it. Carefully flip it around so the parchment side is facing up and the towel is on the bottom side. Gently peel back the parchment paper; it’s okay if a thin layer of cake sticks to the parchment. Set aside about a quarter of the whipped cream and place back in the fridge. Spread the rest of the cream evenly over the cake, leaving a thin border.
Set aside a few strawberries as garnish and place the rest evenly over the whipped cream. With the help of the towel roll the cake into a log widthwise. Gently move the cake roll to a serving tray with the seam side down, and cover with plastic wrap placed directly on the log. Chill in the fridge for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
To serve, remove the plastic wrap. Spread the remaining whipped cream on top of the cake, and top with a few strawberries. Scatter with crumbled dried rose petals, dust with powdered sugar, and garnish with slivered pistachios. Slice and serve.
MAKE AHEAD: The roulette can be made up to 1 day in advance, covered.
PREP AHEAD: The cream can be whipped and stored in the fridge in an airtight container up to 3 days in advance, but the scent of the rose water might dissipate a little.
TO USE DRIED DAMASK ROSE PETALS
Purchase packaged culinary-grade dried damask rose petals from Iranian or Middle Eastern markets or online. When the package is opened you should instantly be hit with a distinct, deeply satisfying aroma. Separate the fragrant petals from the tough woody stems. Set aside some petals, if you like, for beauty and garnish. Place the rest of the petals in a spice grinder ormini food processor and grind to a fine powder. Place the ground petals in a jar and use as needed. Rose petals symbolize love and friendship.